What is the difference between a bypass, anvil and ratchet pruner?  This is one of those questions that I get frequently.  Believe it or not, even many stores and sales associates, who carry these tools, are not really sure of the answer.  So, let me break-it-down to you simply.

 

Bypass Pruners:

These are probably the most purchased and used.  These pruners, using two curved blades, make clean cuts.  They basically work like a pair of scissors on paper.  One of the blades is sharpened and it meets the thicker blade, which is unsharpened, to make the cut.  Use bypass pruners for finer, thinner limbs and stalks.

 

Anvil Pruners:

These pruners act like a knife on a cutting board.  They have one blade that closes on a flat edge (anvil).  Anvil pruners are usually a little larger and are designed to cut wood that is harder or dead.

 

Ratchet Pruners: 

Take the anvil pruner and add an extra feature and you have the ratchet pruner.  If you’re looking for more leverage or you’re going to be doing a lot of pruning, then the ratchet works well.  Just like the name, the ratchet works in stages, locking its grip bit-by-bit, until it snaps-off the limb.  If you have a weaker grip or smaller hands, then this pruner really comes in “handy”.

 

There are several brands of pruners on the market.  I do recommend that you purchase a good one.  Pruners are invaluable in the garden and for yard clean-up.  My favorites brand is Felco.  However, brands, such as, Corona, Fiskars and Sandvik provide quality pruners, as well.  By the way, almost all the brands are also designed for left-handed gardeners.

 

Tip:  Did you know that roses should be pruned when the forsythia blooms?

 

Until next time…

 

Create Everyday,

 

Clark Cameron

It’s time!  If you haven’t started those seeds yet, then you might want to get to it. 

 

To help you minimize costs, grow green and recycle, we present the “Paper Potter.”

 

This handy little item will help you create your own paper pots to start your seedlings.  Using newspaper, you simply wrap the potter with 3” x 18” strips and then fold the bottom into itself (seam side first) and press and turn your pot on the base…and…presto…a perfect paper pot.

 

Below is a video to demonstrate the steps needed to create the paper pot

 To purchase a Paper Potter (since most are imported from England), I would suggest visiting, Greenhouse Megastore:  http://www.greenhousemegastore.com/product/paper-potter

 

I made 100 of these paper pots yesterday and have my seedlings going.  What are you planting?

 

Create Everyday,

 

Clark Cameron

Sometimes I get so busy with my clients in preparation for the holidays, that I become weary when it comes to decorating at home.  This St. Patrick’s Day holiday, I’ll admit, has found me in the same situation.  Maybe it’s because it seems that I just put away the Valentine’s Day décor and Easter is early this year.  I’m trying to find some reason to alleviate my guilt of not doing anything for the wearing of the green.  After all, I am half Irish and I should be making an effort.  Right?

 

I went back and looked to see what I had done before.  I came across some photos of a couple of projects.  These were actually made while living in an apartment in the Bronx, New York.  I was unemployed, had a lot of time on my hands and was in desperate need of having something to maintain my sanity.  So, true to what this blog is about, I decided that I had to create…something.

 

What would really say St. Patrick’s Day?  This is the question I held as I began my crafty quest to create something interesting…something different.  This is what I came up with—a magical leprechaun made from paper mache and a window painting of a leprechaun’s hat.  To be honest, I lost myself in the entire creative process.  I was so focused on bringing to life my leprechaun and window art, that it took my mind off of the fact that I was out of work.  So, whatever your situation and if you’re ready to try your hand at either, I will be happy to send you complete instructions on how to create them.

 

If you’re ahead of the game and already have created something special for St. Patrick’s, please share it with me.  I promise that I will be ahead of the game next year and send you some fresh and fun ideas that you can create.

 

Until then,  Erin Go Braugh (Ireland Forever)!

 

Create Everyday!

 

Clark Cameron

When I first started sharing information about seed starting, I briefly mentioned planning your seedlings based on available space and time commitment.  I thought it necessary to wrap-up our look at Seed Starting with some additional tips.

Since you probably will be starting your seeds soon, draw a simple garden plan (if you haven't already), based on the growing requirements of the plants.  Be sure you have enough room for everything you want to include.  Some plants take a lot of space and require a bit more work as they mature.  Others are virtually care free and don't take as much room.  If you are a beginner, don't over extend yourself.  You want to make this a labor of love and not an unbearable commitment.  Start small and build.  Even if you're an experienced gardener, it never hurts to have a "ground plan" for your garden.

Speaking of ground, make sure your garden's soil is ready for planting.

You will want to plant your new plants (or seeds, if they require direct sowing) when the soil is at a good moisture level.  You want to avoid planting if the ground is too wet or too dry.  Remember when you prepared you seed starting mix and you made a fist of soil?  The consistency you wanted was a a ball of soil that formed a flaky ball that loosely stayed together.  The same rule applies here for garden earth.  It always a good idea to have your soil tested.  This will tell you if you need to add fertilizer, lime, phosphorus or potassium or other soil amendments.  Your soil condition is as important as your plants.  You can take a soil sample to a local garden extension to have it tested.  They can suggest what products you will need to balance out the composition.  Those of you who are container gardening--use a good organic potting soil.

If you're growing cool weather vegetables (cool crop) then you will want to accomodate these plants first in your garden.  Warm weather vegetables can be worked in around these accordlingly.  Again, refer to your seed packets for requirements.  Flowers basically follow the same requirements.  Some flowers need warmer soil and others can tolerate cool earth.

To plant, make a furrow with the corner edge of a hoe.  To ensure a straight line, you may want to place small posts at either end of where the furrow will run and stretch a piece of string between them.  Use this as a guide to dig your furrow and then plant your seedlings or sow your seeds based on the instructions on the seed pack.  Don't forget to place a marker at the end of each row to identify your crop. .

Again, become an expert with the directions provided on your seed packets.  These will continue to guide you from planting to harvest.

Let me hear from you!  If you have any questions or would like to share success stories, please send them to me.  I'll be sharing some of mine throughout the season.

Happy Growing!

Create Everday!

Clark Cameron 

It's time!  You and your seedlings have enjoyed the first phase of the growing experience.  Now, you will want to gently make the transition from indoors to outdoors.  Sure, the outside world can be a scary place; bright sun, rain, wind...and yes...bugs!  Let's look at the most effective way to bring your seedlings into garden life.

Acclimating your seedlings to the garden is known (in the world of gardening) as "hardening off."    This process is fairly easy and you can make a few decisions and choices that will ensure the success of your seedlings making the switch.

Let's go back to those seed packets.  The details on your packets will give you a good idea of when your seedlings will be ready to make the leap to outdoors.  There are cool crops (plants that grow in cooler weather) and the rest, which like warm soil temperatures and conditions.  The seed packets will also inform you of the time it takes to mature and produce a crop or flowers.

Planning a date with your seedlings to take them outdoors is necessary.  However, if the forecast in your area is calling for bad weather, i.e., snow, heavy rain or frost, then you may want to wait a few days.  Take a look at the extended forecast for your area and plan as best you can.

Okay.  So, the conditions seem to be as ideal as possible.  What's next?

Take your seedlings out for the first dose of fresh air and leave them out for a couple of hours.  Then bring them back in.  Do this each day.  However, leave them out just a little more each day.  Soon they'll be living outside on their own.  Be sure to keep you plants in a sheltered area (and watch the moisture level of the soil) when first introducing them to the outdoors.  Limit their exposure to sun, rain and wind.  After a few days, you can move them to the location where they will live for the entire growing season.

Next time, we will discuss planning and planting your gardens.

Create Everyday!

Clark Cameron

 

 

 

 

Have you been checking the moisture levels, maintaining consistent temperatures and giving proper light to your seedlings?  If so, then you should probably be seeing some activity in your containers.  Most seeds take about two weeks to begin showing.  However, others could take longer (or sometimes shorter) depending on the variety of seed.  It's always a good idea to save your seed packets.  They usually contain valuable information regarding the life of your new plants.  Also, if you can see growth on top, then imagine what's been going on below the soil service.  The root system of the plant is just as important as what is seen above ground.

As your new seedlings continue to develop, be sure to keep them in strong light.  This again, will discourage them from becoming leggy (bolting).  If your trays are in natural sunlight, be sure to turn the containers 1/4 of the way around each day.  Plants pull towards the light.  So, by doing this, you will be developing a stronger plant.  If you are using a plant light, be sure to keep it low to the plants and raise it as the seedlings grow taller.

While seed starting mix contains fertilizer, it still a good idea to give the young ones a little extra nutrition.  Garden centers, nurseries, hardware stores and superstores usually carry an adequate selection.  If you're growing organic seeds, you may want to choose an organic fertilizer.  One of my favorites is kelp extract.  This comes in liquid form and can be diluted to the correct dosage.  Whatever fertilizer you choose, make a 50% strength formula to feed your seedlings.

Enjoy watching your plants grow and soon we will be ready to move them to the garden!

Create Everyday!

Clark

 

 

We've discussed selecting seeds, containers and the best choice for seed starting medium.  Now comes the moment you've been waiting for--planting your seeds!

Grab your seed packets and if you haven't read the instructions for each particular seed, now would be the time to do it.  Seeds have different needs.  Some like to rest atop the surface and others want to be planted further down.  Some seeds also have particular light requirements.  You also will want to plant four or five seeds or more (depending on the size of the seed and container) to be sure that you achieve growth from at least one seed.  You can thin the seeds after they begin to grow.  We'll talk more about this in the future.

To begin, place some of your seed starting medium in a bucket.  You will want to moisten the soil.  Start by slowly adding water to the bucket.  You want a damp consistency.  When you place some soil in your hand and make a fist, the soil should loosely stay together.  Make small batches at a time to easily control the process.  When you first bucket is ready, you're ready to fill the containers.  If using peat pods, be sure to hydrate them in advance per the instructions.

Using your peat pots, sterilized plastic, egg cartons or homemade paper pots (I will soon show you how to make your own paper pots, as a special bonus!)  fill each container with the mixture you just made.  Pat the mixture down into the container.  You want your soil to fill the container.  However, there is no need to pack it so it's too dense.

Your containers are all filled and your peat pods hydrated?  Great! 

Following the guidelines on the seed packet, begin to plant your seeds. For seeds that rest towards the top, take a small spoon or small glass to gently press the seed and make soil contact.  After, or even before, you will want to place a plant marker in the container to identify the seeds.  Seedlings can look strangely alike.

There are a couple of external conditions that will help your newly planted seeds germinate properly.   

If you didn't use a domed peat cell tray, then you will want to cover the seeds with some clear plastic wrap until the seeds begin to sprout.  You will still need to check the dampness of the soil.  If for whatever reason the seedlings need to be rehydrated, place them in a shallow bath or luke warm water and let the wick-up from the bottom.

Seedlings like to be warm too.  So, place them in a constant warm environment that enjoys good sun and an average temperature of 65 to 75 degrees.  A south/west window is ideal.  No light?  You can use a grow light or a regular fluorescent lamp.  Be sure to keep the light close to the containers to keep your seedlings from bolting (becoming leggy).  There are also warming mats for seedlings that you can purchase at your garden center.  They are basically heating pads for plants--but are made specifically for this use.  It's probably not a good idea to break out the heating blanket or pad for this use.  The warmth from this device helps promote a strong root system.  If you use a warming mat, be sure to watch your moisture levels.

The seed has been planted!  Now, let's sit back and watch them grow.

Create Everyday!

Clark Cameron

 

You have your seeds.  You have your containers.  Now, let's fill 'em!

What is the best soil to start-off seedlings.  Well, surprisingly enough, the medium of choice is really not soil at all.  As a matter of fact, it is a combination of sphagnum peat, vermiculite and sometimes a little perlite.  The sphagnum peat holds a good deal of water, air and resists decomposing too quickly.  Perlite and vermiculite are natural minerals that expand when they reach a certain temperature.  In "seed starting mix" these work together with the peat by improving the air circulation and water drainage.

All decent growing medium for seeds will also contain limestone to aid in keeping the acidity of the peat and fend against tap water that may be to acidic or too alkaline.  Limestone (usually the dolomite variety) also supplies the seedlings with calcium and magnesium.  Your seed starting mix may also contain a small dose of fertilizer to get the plant going.

Most superstores and hardware stores will carry a variety of seed starting mix in various sizes. Read the ingredients to see if they contain the above elements.  Don't worry if you end up with too much leftover mix.  Keep the bag closed tightly, to guard against moisture, and you will be able to use it again for one more season.  You may also choose to use individual peat pods, that you simply wet and they expand.  The peat pods usually are included in cell-like planting trays. 

However, you can purchase them seperately and put them in your own tray.

A word of caution.  Soil from your yard, potting soils and lawn soil are not good choices to begin your plants.  They are simply too dense and do not offer the nutrients and structure to keep your seedlings healthy.

Are you ready to start planting?  Our next installment will feature how to effectively plant your seeds, water them and give them all the attention they need.  Also, we have a surprise feature, as an extra bonus!

Create Everyday!

Clark Cameron

 

 

Okay.  So, you've decided what you are going to plant and you have your seeds in hand, ready-to-go.

Now.  What to put them in.  There are many options when it comes to choosing the best container for your seeds.  In the picture above, are the commercial offerings.  These are generally an easy route, as there are basically self-contained and take little effort.  You can choose between various sizes of biodegradable pots, cell flats (that can have anywhere from twelve to seventy-two slots)  These flats usually come with peat pods that inflate when water is added.  You can also use a large tub and simply line up singular peat pods.  The cell flats are also a popular choice because many include a clear plastic dome that helps keep the seeds moist during the intial growing stages.

If you are one who likes to recycle, then you may want to use cardboard egg cartons.  You can actually use both sides of the carton.  Remember to punch a small hole in each egg cup or, if you're using the flat side, several small holes spaced accordingly.  Wide and low containers are best for seedlings, as they provide easier access and plants don't become overly crowded.  So, you could consider margarine tubs, cottage cheese containers and the like.  If you decide to use these type of containers, be sure to sanitize them.  Make a 10% bleach solution and soak them in it for about 15 minutes and then let air dry.

Which seeds for which container?  Be sure to read the instructions on your seeds.  Most good seed companies will provide you with detailed information regarding a specific seed.  There are some seeds that do not like to be transplanted.  So, you would want to plant these in a cell-like, biodegradable containers for direct sowing.  Other seeds are not so tender and can be grown in bulk and the separated for outdoor planting. 

So, gather those containers and seeds...because the soil comes next!  Stay tuned...

Create Everyday!

Clark Cameron

 

 

 

If you're like me, this time of the year is an exciting one!  It means that I get to start planning my vegetable and flower gardens.  Most of my garden plants I grow from seed and then supplement them with other specimens that I purchase from the local garden center. 

Starting seeds indoors is a rewarding experience.  You get that thrill of knowing you had a part in bringing that little seed to life and then watching it grow. 

The following series of posts are meant for the person who wants to start seeds indoors or hasn't had much luck.  Over the next few days, we are going to explore what will make your seed sowing ventures a successful one.  Whether you've tried it before and have encountered problems or if you have the itch to try it out--these simple step-by-step instructions are for you.

The first thing you'll want to do is to decide what it is that you want to grow.  I encourage you to be realistic.  You will want to take into account the amount of space indoors that you can accomodate the growing of seedlings and how much room the plants will eventually take in your garden space. 

Go to your local garden center, hardware store or online to see what is offered.  Take some time and read the seed packet descriptions.  Many seeds are meant to be sown directly into the ground after threat of frost--while others are prime for starting indoors.  The packets will also give you an idea of how much room the plants will require.  It's always a good idea to take a notebook to the store and make notes and then come back home and leisurely map out your gardens. 

If you're new to the seed starting scene, you may want to start out slowly and limit your level of commitment.  Why not start out with a simple herb garden?  What about a collection of tomatoes or a variety of sunflowers?  The choices are endless.  Be creative.  Remember, if you don't have a space for a garden, you can grow many variety of plants in containers.

Tomorrow, we will look at what supplies you will need to make your little baby seedlings grow into healthy and happy plants.

Create Everyday,

Clark Cameron